FIN: Movin' on...

...like a branch on a tree,
I keep reaching to be free...
Movin' on, movin' on.
Like a long, dusty road,
I grow weary of my load...
Movin' on.

It's an old camp song.

"...it's done. 29 looks, 8 models, 36 hours leading up to the show with no sleep (Gillian, Aaron, Stephen and I never slept with visits and help from Alton and DJ John Gomi)..."

The show happened 2 weeks ago and I am just now waking up and processing. The 2 days leading up to it were a blur...the intimacy of the team spending wakeless hours finishing pieces: Gillian, Aaron, Stephen and me. Alton flew in from NYC to help and create the final headpiece with feathers overnighted by Abby from The Feather Place in LA. I remember John Gomi stopping by at about 3 am after his gig to talk music for the show and run errands for food & drink provisions. Pam from 2ETN came by the next day with her daughters Nellie and Harlee and Alton & Pam styled the exquisite jewelry pieces on the designs that were runway ready.
Elise, John, Javier & Jesse ran errands and readied the bar. Dana was organizing the backstage. Neil directed the volunteers and the front of the house. Soraiya delivered the macarons and Lisa from Delish brought fresh cupcakes for us to snack on. The models arrived and they sat on stools on the windows having their make-up done by the girls from W3LL People. Bryan showed up and worked their hair into soft, yet classic chignons.
Alejandro Escovedo & David Pulkingham briefly rehearsed the song "13 years" - a sad love song that set the stage for my collection. An obsession with something often out of reach, but one stays with it anyway. My relationship with my craft.
The emotion of the night was overwhelming. I barely remember the show but they say it was wonderful. I'll start posting pictures for those of you who were unable to be there.
Thanks for bearing with my late reporting on my show...lots of things on my mind, not the least of which is my surgery next week.
Ciao for now...I leave you with prep work in the hours leading up to the presentation:

This is the part where I get organized...

...it's Sunday night and almost midnight. Evan is out working and the twins are asleep. I have made the list of things to do for the next 10 days. The show is a week from Friday and there is much sewing to be done but also designs swimming around in my brain. I've mentioned that I work in small groups that linked together to form the larger collection. I think I've narrowed it to four groups: 8,3,4,3,and 4...that's 22 prototypes. How many are completely finished? 3. How many are almost finished? 10. The rest? Not started yet...BUT patterns are made, fabric is set, there is still draping and sewing to be done. I'll probably start the late nights on Tuesday...with my list divided into 20 projects, I'll tackle 2 per day that can range from forming knife pleats in washed linen, to attaching large hooks to lace, to cutting and sewing an entire garment. Sleep beckons ce soir...and all may change tomorrow.
Bonne nuit.

8 weeks...13 years...

...the countdown begins. I haven't done a full blown collection since 2003. Just bits and pieces, a dress here, trousers there, an evening gown for a black tie event:  lots of designs, too many ideas. Production has focused on filling the racks of my shop and selling. But now folks, presenting Blackmail's Fall/Winter Collection 2010-2011...to be unveiled in 8 weeks. Mostly everything is ready - NOT! Sketching continues, fabric is revealed, the groups of the collection have been decided on paper. I work with an overall inspiration and theme and then break it down into smaller groups: these groups are usually decided upon by the fabric. As with any collection, the "points forts" or specific characteristics that tie the presentation together will be apparent throughout: the turn of a collar, the finish of an edge, the line of the silhouette, the shoulder of a sleeve.
So, I think I have 4-6 groups with 4-5 pieces in each group...that's a lot of prototypes, a lot of sewing...8 weeks to revel in the 13 years that Blackmail has existed...

I will try to update bi-weekly and show the progress and steps as to how I work and approach this mountain. This week has been preparation: rearranging the atelier, expanding surfaces, organizing notions, going through bins of fabric and sketching...lots of sketching...

scribbles, sketches, ideas & leather

basic black linen, wool crepe, vintage rayon crepe, muslin

slopers and patterns to be adapted